Defeating Room Reverb (Echo)

So, I have shown my home "studio" before, a few times. With each step, things improve, sound better, and are more comfortable. But, even though I had good reverb reduction, I never quite managed to completely remove it.

Until now.

All folded up.

I ran some tests, and found that most of my reverb came from the top and sides, rather than from behind me. So, using bamboo poles connected to the top shelf, I hung thick extra blankets that I had.

Bamboo pole, hidden under blankets.

First, I drop the two side curtains.

I got the idea for using towels from guys online, who wrote about it. Large towels are more accessible for me, than large blankets. Saves me cash. Also, their thickness is undoubted! They mute jumping echoes!

I cut a slit into the side towel, so the microphone and arm-stand can go through it. It is kept closed with a simple clip.

Then, I just unfold the top towel, and I'm done!

I used the bottom part of the top towel, to close the top of my screen area, where I have another shelf. I have simple pillows behind the screen, to block echo from the front, which is critical.

Side view.

Inside view.

As you can see, it is a simple and effective solution. It is also very comfortable! And quick to fold and unfold; between ten to twenty seconds. I did have the bamboo poles bulge further than the desk, by about 10 centimeters, or 4 inches, so that I get good coverage.

Hack Your Headset

Download this blogcast in MP3 Audio.

I recently got a cheap headset, for use while chatting with friends online. It has Bluetooth, so it is a bit more comfortable than handling wired headphones; or earphones in my case.

Annoyingly, the phones are a bit small, putting pressure on my ears. This causes pain, after a while of use. I Googled, and saw that some people replaced their pads - also known as cushions - with those from a muffler. That is a cool idea! But, I did not feel like wasting more money on this...

It's really, really simple.

So, I just hacked it, myself. As you can see in the photo above, I simply removed the cushions, took the foam out, cut it - to allow more space for the ears, and returned it all back in place.

I cut the inside stitching to remove the foam, and left it open, and used my Leatherman's flat-head screwdriver, to assist with joining the fake-leather cover on the plastic base, again. :-)

Admittingly, the phones are still not very comfortable. This is only a small fix. A patch of sorts. However, until I get a better & more expensive headset, this definitely helps!

Glimpse Into My Recording Studio

Here is a quick photo, just so you can see how my setup looks.

[Click the image for a larger display.]

I used screws and some cotton rope, to hold the echo-cancelling sheet around me, from the ceiling. For the echo-cancelling frills, I used a similar sheet, which I nailed into the shelf, and then used scissors to cut it into nice & accessible frills. :=D And finally, I shoved my netbook into the drawer, and sawed a hole for cables, so that I get some quiet, when recording.

A Generation of Worlds

Open for 10mb 512p large version.

As I continue my journeys in the world of game development and 3D art, I noticed that my wiki, which I use to express my own ideas about game development, should have an actual game attached to it. That is to say, that while writing down technical ideas for games is great, it would also be better presented in the guise of a simple entertaining game world.

The idea came to me intuitively and by muse! Elves Versus Trolls. I have always wanted a game that lets not only all those cutsie gamer people enjoy playing, but a game world that encourages and works with internet trolls. Why? Because, I am one such troll! And I am not ashamed of it.

Internet trolling is an art form. Just like dance and reggae. It does not have to be insulting to anyone to be funny. Trolling can even be helpful, when touchy topics are highlighted, and nobody wants to get dirty, philosophically speaking. I have been active in trolling circles for many years, and I am proud of me and most of my fellows. We bring humor and joy and good company.

So, why have trolls in a game?

I would like to talk about this in my next blog post. In the meanwhile, let me tell you about http://donjon.bin.sh/world/. What an interesting world generator!!! Not only does it have many options to choose from, for your own totally unique world, it also lets you export the result in different ways, so you can have both an animated gif, an image, and a map! How awesome is that? :-)

I also noticed they have other generators in their website. Mostly fantasy gaming related, id est Dungeons & Dragons games. I have not really checked the other generators, so do share if you find anything interesting. Comment below! ;-)

My Gameplay Mechanics @ Wiki.AssafKoss.com

Officially, all my latest revisions for an Online Multiplayer Fantasy Action gameplay mechanics are publicly available on my wiki, at:

Wiki.AssafKoss.com

My kind of lady. - The Final Fantasy Wikia

I am trying to sort out the Do's from the Do Not's, in a manner that reflects on how such games should be, instead of what is already, obviously, wrong with them. Titles that fit into this genre description include, but are not limited, to MMORPG's, MMOTBG's, MMOFPS's & many of the modern day MMO(G)'s.

Be warned, that while this wiki is publicly visible, it is not public for editing, at all. I am glad to incorporate YOU, if you feel this is relevant to you. Simply contact me in any way, if you want in on the editing work.

Plants Can Talk

People can listen.

Syrian Rue

 

+

Harding Grass

=

Party

Seeking Depth Within Life

I've always been a big fan of the philosophic and Buddhist practice of wondering about the origin of things. For example, before eating one will wonder about the origins and source of their food and drink. Where does it come from? Who collected it? Who prepared it?

Old Habits Die Hard?

I feel that this practice is extremely relevant to the understanding of the true meaning of all things in life. Many might question if their choices and practices are good or bad. The best way to get an answer for that, even if a personal one, is by learning and discovering the origins and processes things go through to reach us. Should I act in a certain way? Should I consume a certain thing? What is the meaning of life?

Yes. I feel that it is an easy way of attaining the meaning of life for each of us. Simply check about your life. If there is any dissatisfaction left after the research, then go ahead and check into the origins of your dissatisfaction! It's as simple as that. Eventually, clarity and purpose are always revealed. :-)

Rock On Demotivational Posters

Yuji Kaido from Blue Gender (anime)

Somehow, it's just so much fun making these. :P

Democracy Is Bad For All

Today, I will shortly write my opinion about democracy.

G. Edward Griffin
on Collectivism
(YouTube Video)

Democracy is a method by which a ruling elite, who rule by force, manipulate human society into accepting atrocities. Their manipulation is aimed at the majority group of adult males, for they are the most dangerous and influential group of people in any society. Women, although dangerous just the same, are more occupied by nature.

I feel that there are unrealistic hopes about the results democracy is supposed to bring forth. I encourage all and one to let go of any such hopes, and instead search and investigate into well-founded ideas for making life healthy and enjoyable. A life of responsibility and care. A life of freedom and open love.

I say well-founded ideas, because democracy is a badly-founded idea. Democracy is founded on practices of extreme violence, extreme racism, extreme sexism, and extreme ignorance and social manipulation. Welcome to the Greek Empire of antiquity. The facts of democracy, in the past, and today, and its' evolution are a cause for distraught. It is a factual and historical evil. Is it worth protecting and promoting? No. There is nothing to protect, because democracy has already pretty much gone as far as it will go in the modern world. It is worth learning from, and advancing forward from and into a better paradigm. A better social paradigm.

First Earth: Uncompromising Ecological Architecture (2009)

Click here to watch the
Documentary Film on Youtube!

Here is a little bit of an extra to add to your awareness. This documentary film shows footage from different countries around the globe, while discussing and reviewing the current state of mud houses.

MUD HOUSES! That's awesome.

No doubt, the film goes through the different techniques and shows examples, all the while interviewing those people and communities involved in the action. The examples are amazing. Yemen, England, Canada, Israel, Ghana, New Mexico, Thailand, and many more. Highly recommended.

Yours truly. Hippie activist 2013. :=D

Update: Flame On!

It

Burns!

This is an update to my previous Olive Oil Lamp post. On your left you will see a simple photograph (webcam) of me holding one of my DIY olive oil glass jar lamps. :=D Daddy is so proud!

Basically, I use a rather wide thick-glass jar, cut some white cotton sock for a wick, and bend some steel wire to hold that wick in place above the oil. Beautiful. Utsukushii. I have this smaller one for my room - a lovely hand warmer and atmosphere setter, and another bigger one for my outdoors camp. The lid is used to kill the flame, while it also keeps the smoke inside as it dies.

Olive Oil Lamp

If you have not yet seen, played with, and/or made an oil lamp with olive oil - please do. Here is advice on exactly that.

Aladdin style.

Frugal Survivalist Style.

There is an endless variety of lamps, and many methods to use. I recommend using any lamp material that would not heat up and burn your fingers. Also, I recommend using cotton for a wick. And last, but not least, I recommend pure high-quality olive oil, even though other grades and kinds could be used. That's just me :-)

For you, here is how I made my own lamp. A used glass jar is great for holding the oil, and it is possible to add water below the oil - so that the wick is not far away. If there is a large distance between wick and oil, more than a few centimeters, then it is likely that the wick will burn-out and the lamp stop flaming. Easily fixed with a new wick and oil replenishment.

I used a hammer and nail to make a hole for the wick to pass through. I bent the wick sideways so that the flame doesn't easily kill the soaked wick. Olive oil is hardly flammable, and would take very flammable conditions in order to burn openly.

I am still adjusting my lamp experiment, and will update on the matter here. Somehow, it feels that having an ancient style lamp would be most awesome and comfortable. Meh, used jars are what I have.

Treating Cotton To Withstand Water

Maybe you have recently asked yourself, "Hey! How do I make a piece of cotton fabric stand against the winter rains? Maybe even cover my -insert item-, so it is kept dry and clean." So here it is.

Things You'll Need
Waterproofing Spray

Instructions

1. • 1
     Clean the cotton fabric before applying the waterproofing spray. If you are going to apply the waterproofing spray to a cotton trench coat or overcoat, have it dry cleaned first.
   • 2
     Hang the coat outside in an open area or lay it flat on a clean table outside. Apply the spray in an even back and forth motion to fully cover the material. If the coat is laying on a table, make sure to allow the spray to dry on one side before turning it over to apply to the other side.
   • 3
     Reapply the waterproofing spray following the same steps as above once you find that the coat has begun to lose its ability to keep the water from seeping through.
     
     Quoted from eHow.com after scanning around for an easy solution. Second best is something awkward, like hardcore oldstyle ways, for example our friend StigOfTheDump shares:
     

     Horace Kepharts book Camping and Woodcraft contains a recipe as follows:
     
     Waterproofing Cloth at Home. — If one has 
     home facilities, there is no reason why he should not 
     make a good job of waterproofing for himself. 
     
     Paraffine Process. — The cheapest, simplest, and, in 
     some respects, the most satisfactory way is to get a cake 
     or two of paraffine or cerasine, lay the tent on a table 
     rub the outer side with the wax until it has a good coat- 
     ing evenly distributed, then iron the cloth with a medium- 
     hot flatiron, which melts the wax and runs it into every 
     pore of the cloth. The more closely woven the cloth, the 
     less wax and less total weight. 
     
     Some prefer to treat the tent with a solution of paraffine. 
     In this case, cut the wax into shavings so it will dis- 
     solve readily. Put 2 lbs. of the wax in 2 gallons of tur- 
     pentine (for a 7x9 tent or thereabouts). Place the ves- 
     sel in a tub of hot water until solution is completed. 
     Meantime set up the tent true and taut. Then paint it 
     with the hot solution, working rapidly, and using a stiff 
     brush. Do this on a sunny morning and let tent stand 
     until quite dry. The turpentine adds a certain elasticity 
     to the wax; benzine does not. 
     
     For tents to be used in cold weather before an 
     open fire, the following process is better: 
     
     Alum and Sugar of Lead. — First soak the tent over- 
     night in water to rid it of sizing, and hang up to dry. 
     Then get enough soft water to make the solutions (rain- 
     water is best; some city waters will do, others are too 
     hard). Have two tubs or wash-boilers big enough for 
     the purpose. In one, dissolve alum in hot soft water, 
     in the proportion of 34 Jt). to the gallon. In the other, 
     with the same amount of hot water, dissolve sugar of 
     lead (lead acetate — a poison) in the same proportion. 
     Let the solutions stand until clear; then add the sugar 
     of lead solution to the alum liquor. Let stand about four 
     hours, or until all the lead sulphate has precipitated. 
     Then pour off the clear liquor from the dregs into the 
     other tub, thoroughly work the tent in it with the hands 
     until every part is quite penetrated, and let soak over- 
     night. In the morning, rinse well, stretch, and hang up 
     to dry. 
     
     A closely woven cloth should be used. 
     
     This treatment fixes acetate of alumina in the fibers of 
     the cloth. The final rinsing is to cleanse the fabric from 
     the useless white powder of sulphate of lead that is de- 
     posited on it. Failures are usually due to using hard 
     water, or a less proportion of alum than here recom- 
     mended, or to not dissolving the chemicals separately and 
     decanting off the clear liquor. When directions are fol- 
     lowed, the cloth will be rain-proof and practically spark- 
     proof, but not damp-proof if you use it as a ground-sheet 
     to lie on, or if exposed to friction. After a good deal of 
     use, the tent will need treating over again, as the mineral 
     deposit gradually washes out. 
     
     Remember that cotton goods shrink considerably when 
     first soaked. 
     
     Alum and Soap. — Shave up about a pound of laundry 
     soap and dissolve it in 2 gallons of hot water. Soak the 
     cloth in it, dry out thoroughly, and then soak in an alum 
     solution as above, and dry again. 
     
     I have had no success with the alum and lime 
     method mentioned by " Nessmuk." 
     
     Good waterproofing compounds can be purchased 
     teady-made from some tent-makers. 
     
     The following recipes, although not suitable for 
     tents, are useful for other articles of equipment, and 
     are included here while on the subject of water- 
     proofing cloth: 
     
     Oiled Cloth. — For groupd-sheets to use under bedding: 
     get some of the best grade of boiled linseed oil of a 
     reputable paint dealer. One quart will cover five or six 
     square yards of heavy sheeting. Pour it into a pan big 
     ■enough to dip your hand into. Lay out the cloth and rub 
     the oil into it between your palms, using just enough oil 
     at a time to soak the cloth through, filling the pores, but 
     leaving no surplus. Then stretch it in a barn or garret, 
     or other dry shady place, for one week. Finish drying by 
     hanging in the sunlight three or four days, fi .st one side 
     up, then the other. 
     
     Apologies for wierd spelling mistakes as its taken from an OCR scan of the book that is free online and in the public domain here:
     http://openlibrary.org/works/OL49656..._and_woodcraft